Wednesday, July 22, 2009

6-29 Railay Day 8

Today we decided to split up. Mike, Jeff, and Matt decided to take the morning ferry to Koh Phi Phi while Chris and I stayed back for just one more day. We'd heard the stories about the crazy parties on Phi Phi, but lounging on Railay and the atmosphere here is just so hard to pass up for bumping base and drunken UK kids on holiday.
Mom's Kitchen, now our favorite restaurant, served up some amazing breakfast as usual then myself, Scarlet, Giles, and James met up with Tex at his climbing shop(Tex Climbers) on the shore of East Railay. Chris decided to be a beach bum and relocated to a nice hotel on Railay West to work on his tan and get some reading in. Today Tex was going to take us climbing to a special place he hadn't been to in over 5 years. The plan was to climb up above the Southeastern viewpoint that overlooks all of Railay East. I had been to that viewpoint a few days before. From there, we take out the climbing gear and go up 50m higher to a viewpoint high enough to look down on everything. We trekked part of the path up to the secret lagoon, then cut through an overgrown path leading uphill towards the South. Tex had been discreet as possible getting us there because he doesn't want any other climbers turning this route into a tourist climb.
As we continued our ascent, now over 120m above sea level, the dense jungle ended abruptly at the base of a 30m cliff face. Unlike the climbing routes we've visited in Railay so far, this was a raw cliff face that was untouched by human hands. Roots and vines criss-crossed up and down the face. We knew we'd have to rely on our abilities to locate holds in the rock, as opposed to searching for the chalk residue from previous climbers, as we've become accostomed. This wasn't your average tourist day trip. We were going not as clients, but as friends. Tex was sharing a valuable secret with us. Many years ago, Tex freeclimbed this cliff face and installed a few anchors. Today he used those same anchors which were hidden to all but his memory, thanks to vines and decaying leaves. With a makeshift machete in one hand, he hacked away at the vegetion to allow for finding holds and to avoid becoming tangled. He methodically moved up the wall and clipped the rope into the anchors for us to safely follow him. Just a few minutes had passed, but Tex was already at the top and making short work out of rigging up two ropes: one for us to ascend and one for him to allow him to be alongside us as we climbed, lending advice and assistance if needed. With James up top on belay, Scarlet, myself, and Giles each took our turn up the cliff. Tex watched us like a hawk, staying a few meters off to the side. Up top was the beginning of a steep slope that was hidden by thick vegetation. The rock up top is more like freshly formed volcanic rock than than anything else. It's razor sharp and jagged. Walking barefoot would be impossible. With our climbing gear off, we slowly snaked uphill, following Tex as he hacked through an overgrown path. We ascended another 40m and the trees and brush began to give way, allowing small previews to the vista that awaited us ahead. It got pretty treacherous as we traversed across a 2m wide ridge with sheer cliffs on both sides, followed by a 30m trek through densejungle that felt more like tunneling through, as we crouched down, completely enveloped by trees and bushes. The 'tunnel' finally opened up and we found ourselves looking down on all of Railay East, South, North, and West from the peak of the 165m limestone tower. The views, of course, were incredible! Our spirits were high and Tex kept us entertained with his gut-busting intentional misuse of English. Plans were devised for a small hut and hammocks to be hidden away there, allowing for sunset views and overnight stays. The climb back down was slow and at times painful, but the repel down the cliff face into the jungle made it all worth while. Back at Tex's shop, he would not allow us to pay for the climb, so we instead invited him to dinner later that night.
We all decided it neccessary to treat Tex to a meal he'd never buy himself. The most recent hotel in Railay, which is a 5 star complex with rates approaching $1k for a room and $7k/night for the honeymoon suite, was just down the beach and was throwing a promotion for 1/2 off in their restaurant. The wine was flowing and the Chateaubriande delicious. After that meal, not even the espresso shots were enough to keep us out at the bar for long.

I don't have any of the pictures of up top the overlook just yet. Here are a few on our way there:





No comments:

Post a Comment